Our recent Bali trip introduced us to an area there called Ubud, an artist village that is a foodie haven as well. This Holy Week, I didn’t have to travel that far to get both hunger for artistry and gastronomic finds filled. At the heart of Tiaong, Quezon, Ugu Bigyan sends me to another memorable journey.
It’s Maundy Thursday. We set out for San Pablo, Laguna at 8AM. It’s been a while since we traveled South on a holiday. I’m not really big on traveling southbound since they started that road construction that’s been ongoing for years. It’s good to know that all lanes are now passable in SLEX. Nevertheless, we didn’t escape the heavy holiday traffic.
I was quite excited to finally visit Ugu Bigyan. I remember in 2007, I called and inquired about getting a reservation for four because I was planning a weekend trip with Chai and her Mr. Big then. That didn’t push through but never did Ugu Bigyan leave my mind as one of the places I want to go to. I read somewhere about their delicious Filipino dishes –like Kulawo, Lato Salad, Sinigang na Baboy, Adobong Chicken and Pork, Grilled Tilapia and mussels with vegetables. I’d imagine that Sinagang na Baboy to be really sour, a bit creamy/milky (from the gabi or taro) and oily from the pork fats –just how I would make it if I knew how to cook it myself.
It took us 4 hours and 30 minutes to get to Tiaong, Quezon. The plan was to drop by Tahanan ni Aling Meding first and check in, but decided to go straight to Ugu Bigyan. It is 12:30pm after all, time for lunch. That long drive is not the best way to start anybody’s morning. It made us feel so tired and prickly.
The car entered the red clay house one won’t fail to spot on the left side of the street. As soon as the car got parked, limbs stretched out to the open sky. Walking inside, our fatigue seems to have abandoned us and stayed with the car.
Augusto “Ugo” Bigyan, is a celebrated pottery artist who opens the door of his house-cum-workshop to the rest of us looking for a relaxed getaway with a bit of ceramic artistry.
Stepping into the world of Ugu is like stepping into an old world. Earthy. Unpretentious. Al-fresco. Makes you feel that Metro Manila is hundred hours away… and your mind also leaves behind whatever occupies it in bustling Manila.
We meet Ugu’s sister(?), Haidee and her son Kim at Ugu’s clay-crafts gallery. There was another group ahead of us, scouring the area where Ugu’s hands have shaped some fine pottery arts and crafts. The shop displays his original dinnerware sets, furniture and house décor.
We look around and bathe ourselves in fresh air. The unpolluted air revives our tired spirits making us feel like we only woke up a few minutes ago, ready for the rest of the day.
Ugu’s pottery garden composes of different dining areas, each bedecked with its own artistic slash native charm.
While waiting for the food to be served, Bubba and I relaxed on our seats. We see more people coming in. A familiar face entered my view and I waved hello. It was Anton of Our Awesome Planet and he shared some of his discoveries in Quezon, particularly Cagbalete Island (which I’ve been meaning to visit as well after reading it on Jen’s site). Anton has a big project coming up (amidst a lot of his other ongoing projects) but this is a first of OAP and it’s pretty exciting! 😉 You gotta watch out for that!
I also saw Liza, formerly from the Star group with some of her friends. They are staying at Casa San Pablo, Bubba’s first picked when he planned this trip but I suggested trying a new place so we opted to go for Tahanan ni Aling Meding near Sampaloc Lake.
The wait staff, all in white shirt and board shorts (very summery), arrived and placed the starters on the table. One apologized that the dishes will come in one at a time because it’s being cooked personally by Ugu fresh in the kitchen. We didn’t mind at all since time seems to be irrelevant when you are in an exceptionally comfortable and relaxed setting.
On the Table
Halaan Soup
The warm broth with big clams (Pacific clams?) was very soothing, and ideal calmer for my sore throat.
Ensaladang Pako (Fern Salad)
The fern salad tasted fresh with a faint hint of citrus –the bits of green apple slices add a natural and easy sweetness to the dish.
Both starters were good openers. Quite simple in taste, cleansing the palate for a story of flavors to come.
Tortang Tahong
“Torta” is the Philippine version of omelette. This particular torta was made with mussels and onions. It’s not an immediate leap from the taste of the earlier starters but a first for me to try.
Kulawo (Puso ng Saging or Banana Palm Heart)
One taste of Kulawo and Bubba and I were both impressed. The smoky flavor emerges on top of the flaky dish. The grilled (tad bit tangy) taste is very delish and we couldn’t quite get enough of it.
Calamares
Big squid rings very lightly battered with sweet and sour sauce on the side
Sauteed Shrimps
Lapu Lapu with Mango Relish
Clean and light fish meat accompanied by sweet and slightly tangy mango relish
Barbecued Spareribs
Interestingly, each dish builds a different layer of flavor and ultimately, the smoky barbecue ribs reconnect the taste of the Kulawo, linking the overall taste. There’s a thick sheet of fat accompanying the chunk of meat and it melts in the mouth almost surreptitiously. The barbecue sauce coating is lip smacking that you’d want to scrape off the charred BBQ sauce and nick the bones with your teeth. Or maybe that’s just me *shrugs*
Cold Coconut Juice
Refreshing with shards of coconut meat
Ginumis
With a smorgasbord of food in front of us, Bubba asked me what my favorite was.
Bubba was surprised that I rated the ribs my #1 because he would suppose that Naughty Nuri’s has raised the bar high in terms of ribs experience. It’s hard not to really like Ugu’s version of smoked spareribs, with its rich, barbecue flavor… and the sinful fat!
I told him, “You already know by now, me and fat… are this close (crossing my index and middle finger).”
Bubba’s favorite was surprisingly the sautéed garlic shrimp, which he would not normally touch in an ordinary day.
We both agree on our second favorite –the smoky and quite tasty banana palm heart.
Service was great –efficient and very affable. Ugu is a multi-faceted artist that can whip up the most delicate pottery inside his workshop and the most delectable dishes from his kitchen.
There’s so much to remember on this wonderful lunch at Ugu’s 🙂
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Escape into this beautiful countryside home that showcases pottery artwork and clayware that contains scrumptious food… Leave with a satisfied tummy and relaxed mind. It reminded me of Bali, but it is definitely a class of its own.
Ugu Bigyan
Brgy. Lusacan, Tiaong, Quezon
(042) 545 9144
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How to get there:
(Directions from http://www.waypoints.ph/detail_gen.php?wpt=ugu)
To Tiaong Quezon:
From Manila, take the South Luzon Tollway all the way to the south end. At the end of the tollway, after the toll plaza, take the exit that points to Lucena and simply drive along this national road until you reach the Sto. Tomas junction. Sto. Tomas has two junctions, and one of which (the second) does not have any road sign when we passed by. Anyway, on both juctions, take the road to the left (southeastward) toward Lucena. This will take you through Alaminos then San Pablo Laguna. At San Pablo junction, just follow the highway, veering to the right and bypassing the city. Do not enter San Pablo proper. Next town after San Pablo would be Tiaong.
From Tiaong: From the Tiaong market, continue further southwest along the national road. After about 240m, the road will turn sharply to the left. Continue down the road southeast. About 480m from the turn you will see the Tiaong Municipio on your right. Continue travelling for another 2.4km from the municipio until you see the Tiaong Rural Bank on the left side. If you prefer looking at kilometer posts, this rural bank is a few meters after KM98. Turn left at the small street just before the rural bank. 600m into the street, after crossing a rail road halfway, you will see a sign ‘Alvarez Village’. Turn left, and barely 90m from the corner, you will see a distinctly different house constructed from bricks on the left side. This is Ugu’s workshop-residence.
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